| s-3
| It contains the head of Saint James the brother of John and many relics. |
| s-4
| The house of Annas, in which Jesus was questioned and struck, is within the compound. |
| s-5
| The church's manuscript collection is the largest outside Soviet Armenia. |
| s-6
| The antique tiles are gorgeous. |
| s-7
| But all these things are in some way external. |
| s-8
| We outsiders are not stable enough to appreciate them. |
| s-9
| We inherit our mode of appreciation from the Victorians, from a time of safety and leisure, when dinner guests knew better than to smoke after the main course, when Levantines were Levantines and culture was still culture. |
| s-10
| But in these days of armored attacks on Yom Kippur, of Vietnams, Watergates, Mansons, Amins, terrorist massacres at Olympic Games, what are illuminated manuscripts, what are masterpieces of wrought iron, what are holy places? |
| s-11
| We soon get around to contemporary matters. |
| s-12
| A call to the telephone; |
| s-13
| the Archbishop excuses himself in two languages and tells us when he comes back that he has been speaking to one of his Lebanese friends calling from Cyprus or from Greece. |
| s-14
| He sits down, saying that the influence of Yasir Arafat is evidently weakening and fading. |
| s-15
| Arafat was unable to complete the classic guerrilla pattern and bring the masses into the struggle. |
| s-16
| Then someone says that it can't be long now before the Russians write Arafat off. |
| s-17
| They have undoubtedly recognized their failure in the Arab world and may even be preparing to reopen diplomatic relations with Israel. |
| s-18
| Most of the dinner guests agree that Russia's internal difficulties are so grave it may have to draw away from Syria. |
| s-19
| Indeed, it may be forced to retreat from the Middle East and concentrate on its domestic problems. |
| s-20
| To avoid collapse the Russians may be driven into a war with China. |
| s-21
| Secretary-of-State Henry Kissinger has won the Middle Eastern struggle by drawing Egypt into the American camp. |
| s-22
| He is a genius. |
| s-23
| The Russians are in disarray, perhaps in retreat. |
| s-24
| I have been hearing conversations like this one for half a century. |
| s-25
| I well remember what intelligent, informed people were saying in the last years of the Weimar Republic, what they told one another in the first days after Hindenburg had brought in Hitler. |
| s-26
| I recall table talk from the times of Leon Blum and Edouard Daladier. |
| s-27
| I remember what people said about the Italian adventure in Ethiopia and about the Spanish Civil War and the Battle of Britain. |
| s-28
| Such intelligent discussion hasn't always been wrong. |
| s-29
| What is wrong with it is that the discussants invariably impart their own intelligence to what they are discussing. |
| s-30
| Later, historical studies show that what actually happened was devoid of anything like such intelligence. |
| s-31
| It was absent from Flanders Field and from Versailles, absent when the Ruhr was taken, absent from Teheran, Yalta, Potsdam, absent from British policy at the time of the Palestine Mandate, absent before, during, and after the Holocaust. |
| s-32
| History and politics are not at all like the notions developed by intelligent, informed people. |
| s-33
| Tolstoi made this clear in the opening pages of War and Peace. |
| s-34
| In Anna Scherer's salon, the elegant guests are discussing the scandal of Napoleon and the Duc d'Enghien, and Prince Andrei says that after all there is a great difference between Napoleon the Emperor and Napoleon the private person. |
| s-35
| There are raisons d'etat and there are private crimes. |
| s-36
| And the talk goes on. |
| s-37
| What is still being perpetuated in all civilized discussion is the ritual of civilized discussion itself. |
| s-38
| Tatu agrees with the Archbishop about the Russians. |
| s-39
| So that, as they say in Chicago, is where the smart money is. |
| s-40
| The Vatican is the next topic and receives similar treatment. |
| s-41
| Some Armenian prelates have joined us for coffee and take part in the discussion. |
| s-42
| Someone observes that the Church is a worshiper of success and always follows the majorities. |
| s-43
| See what it is doing now in the Warsaw Pact countries, it is making deals with the Communists. |
| s-44
| Should communism sweep Italy, would the Pope move to Jerusalem? |
| s-45
| Rather, says one of the prelates, he would stay in Rome and become Party secretary. |
| s-46
| And there we are, Kissinger has entirely wrecked Russia's Middle East policy and the Pope is about to swap the Vatican for the Kremlin. |
| s-47
| Dessert is served. |
| s-48
| In my letter to Le Monde I had said that in the French tradition there were two attitudes toward the Jews: a revolutionary attitude which had resulted in their enfranchisement, and an anti-Semitic one. |
| s-49
| The intellectual leaders of the Enlightenment were decidedly anti-Semitic. |
| s-50
| I asked which of the two attitudes would prevail in twentieth-century France the century of the Dreyfus affair and of the Vichy government. |
| s-51
| The position taken by Foreign Minister Maurice Jobert in the October War of 1973 was that the Palestinian Arabs had a natural and justified desire to 'go home.' |
| s-52
| I expressed, politely, the hope that the other attitude, the revolutionary one, would not be abandoned. |
| s-53
| I made sure that my letter would be delivered. |
| s-54
| Eugene Ionescu gave the editors one copy of it; another was handed to them by Manes Sperber, the novelist. |
| s-55
| The letter was never acknowledged. |
| s-56
| Since 1973, Le Monde has openly taken the side of the Arabs in their struggle with Israel. |
| s-57
| It supports terrorists. |
| s-58
| It is friendlier to Amin than to Rabin. |
| s-59
| A recent review of the autobiography of a fedayeen speaks of the Israelis as colonialists. |
| s-60
| On July 3, 1976, before Israel had freed the hostages at Entebbe, the paper observed with some satisfaction that Amin, 'the disquieting Marshal,' maligned by everyone, had now become the support and the hope of his foolish detractors. |
| s-61
| The great Golden Gate that will open when the Redeemer appears stands sealed. |
| s-62
| Just beyond, the Garden of Gethsemane. |
| s-63
| As its name indicates, it was an olive grove. |
| s-64
| Now pines, cypresses, and eucalyptus trees grow there below the domes of the Russian Orthodox church. |
| s-65
| Opposite it there are olives still, which Arabs are harvesting with long poles. |
| s-66
| They hit the branches, they thresh the leaves with their sticks, and the fruit rains down. |
| s-67
| As we go up into the Via Dolorosa, we hear an exciting jingle. |
| s-68
| Arab boys are racing their donkeys down the hill. |
| s-69
| You look for sleighs and frost when you hear this jingle-belling. |
| s-70
| Instead, there are boys stern and joyous, galloping hell-bent on their donkeys toward the Lions' Gate. |
| s-71
| 'Rode from Ramlah to Lydda,' Herman Melville wrote in his travel journal of 1857. |
| s-72
| A mounted escort of some 30 men, all armed. |
| s-73
| Fine riding. |
| s-74
| Musket-shooting. |
| s-75
| Curvetting & caracoling of the horsemen. |
| s-76
| Outriders. |
| s-77
| Horsemen riding to one side, scorning the perils.' |
| s-78
| And a few days later, on the barrenness of Judea, 'whitish mildew pervading whole tracts of landscape. |
| s-79
| Village of Lepers houses facing the wall Zion. |
| s-80
| Their park, a dung-heap. |
| s-81
| They sit by the gates asking alms, then whine avoidance of them & horror. |
| s-82
| Wandering among the tombs till I began to think myself one of the possessed with devils.' |
| s-83
| Anwar Sadat's American visit. |
| s-84
| You have to discuss this with Israelis before they will consent to talk about anything else. |
| s-85
| An indignant librarian, a middle-aged woman whose face is so hot it is almost fragrant with indignation, demands of me in a superdistinguished all but Oxonian accent, 'How do you account for it!' |
| s-86
| I shrug. |
| s-87
| This is what I would say if I did answer her: |
| s-88
| Americans love to open their hearts to foreign visitors. |
| s-89
| These visitors are sometimes treated as if they were the heroes of an Arabian Nights' tale. |
| s-90
| We'll show them how good we all are and well-meaning and generous and open-minded and evenhanded. |
| s-91
| We will be full of emotion and the visitors will be correspondingly full of emotion, and after they have been wined and feted and dined and toasted and televised and paraded and clapped and the supplying of loans and atomic plants and military hardware has been discussed they will love us. |
| s-92
| I trust that they will give us better love than they are getting from us, for ours is a very low-quality upward-seeping vegetable-sap sort of love, as short-lived as it is spontaneous. |
| s-93
| As soon as they leave they are forgotten. |
| s-94
| An old Mormon missionary in Nauvoo once gripped my knee hard as we sat side by side, and he put his arm about me and called me 'Brother.' |
| s-95
| We'd only met ten minutes before. |
| s-96
| He took me to his good bosom. |
| s-97
| His eyes began to mist. |
| s-98
| I was a prospect, an exotic prospect in old tennis shoes and a sweatshirt. |
| s-99
| His heart opened to me. |
| s-100
| It opened like a cuckoo clock. |
| s-101
| But it did not give me the time of day. |
| s-102
| 'But don't Americans know that Sadat was a Nazi?' the librarian says. |